Our first For The Love of Port Anniversary Tasting happened in July 2009, when we celebrated the 4th Anniversary of FTLOP with a tasting in Issaquah, Washington. Over the years, we’ve held the event annually in July in the Seattle area since Roy and I (and several FLTOP Staff and active members) live in the area.
However, in 2022, Roy finally realize his dream of moving to Portugal, and unfortunately was not going to make it back to the US in July. After discussing this with Roy and FTLOP Staffer Glenn (also in the Seattle area), we decided that we would move the annual event to November, as Roy planned to be in town around the Thanksgiving holiday. We later decided to permanently move the FTLOP Anniversary Tasting to November, as Roy plans to return to the US regularly in November.
Glenn and I set about planning the 17th Anniversary Tasting for the weekend of November 19, 2022. It is worth noting that Roy, with his connections in the Seattle restaurant and hotel industry, has always taken charge of securing a location for these events. However, the task of securing a venue now fell on my shoulders, with Glenn taking the lead on organizing the invitations/attendees and coordinating the wines for the weekend.
Securing the venue was no small task. The weekend normally features a small FTLOP Staff tasting on Friday evening (which I hosted at my house), followed by tastings on Saturday and Sunday for the rest of the attendees. The Saturday and Sunday tastings are typically long affairs – just the tasting itself can run four hours, and when you add setup and a (usually) long dinner it can add up to nine hours (or more). Coming out of the pandemic, many restaurants have cut back their hours, some only opening for six or seven hours on the weekend. I continued to run into these “shortened hours” issues, and one venue politely told me that they just didn’t have the staff to service a group of our size.
Lisa, one of the FTLOP regulars, recommended that I reach out to the Chef/Owner of a Seattle restaurant that she frequents – Surrell. I have attended a couple of events there, and they had just completed building out their upstairs event space. After a few phone calls and discussions, they were able to not only secure space for us on both days but worked with us on crafting a menu for both tastings.
With the venue secures, and Glenn’s work organizing the people and wines that they were bringing, we were ready for a great weekend of tasting and celebrating both the Anniversary of FTLOP, and also the return of Roy to the Seattle area.
Friday – FTLOP Staff Meeting
The first event of the weekend was the FTLOP Staff Meeting, a tradition that gives those of us who run and work on the FTLOP website a chance to get together to taste some Ports, talk a little shop, and enjoy a casual evening before the intensity of two days of tasting ahead of us. Unfortunately, Andy was not able to make the event this year, so Roy, Glenn, David, and I drank his share of the Ports. Sorry, Andy.
Casual Tasting
2018 Sandeman Vintage Port. Completely opaque in color. Aromas of dark berries, boysenberry, violets, and dried nuts. Very pleasant, elegant approach with noticeable sweetness through the mid-palate. There are also some primary grapey notes. The tannins start off soft and refined but start to ramp up on the mid-palette. The palate along with some grapey notes. This is a slurpee and a pretty atypical Vintage Port for Sandman wine. Ridiculously approachable. 96 points. 11/18/2022
DR 20 Year Old White Port. Bottled in 2021. Golden yellow in color. Aromas of honey and caramel. The palate has amazing caramel, vanilla, and honeysuckle nectar notes. Great acidity and a very long finish. 94 points. 11/18/2022
Morgado 10 Year Old Tawny Port. There are light aromas of chocolate and red fruit. The palate has a simple flavor profile of red fruit, cinnamon, and a touch of alcohol. The tannins are medium, and overall, it shows as a sweeter style wine with a medium finish. 88 points. 11/18/2022
Kirkland 10 Year Old Tawny Port. Ruby-amber in color. There are red fruits, cranberry, red currant, and a touch of spirit on the nose. The entry has a slightly cloying sweetness, but that gives way on the mid-palate to some peasant, rich notes of spices and red fruits. Long finish with well-balanced tannins. 87 points. 11/18/2022
Wines With Dinner
- 2004 Quinta do Crasto Old Vines Reserva
- 2017 Adega da Cartuxa Pêra-Manca Branco (Alentejo)
- 2012 Quinta Vale D. Maria Vinho do Rio Douro Red
Port Flight
1980 Dow Vintage Port. Dark, almost completely opaque. The nose has wonderful, complex notes of blackberry, black plum, and chocolate. On the palate, there is a fantastic structure, with black licorice, anise, and cocoa powder. The tannins are well-structured as well on the long, beautiful finish. 95 points. 11/18/2022
1994 Quinto do Vesuvio Vintage Port. Almost opaque in color. Expressive nose of chocolate, violets, blueberry, and cassis. Full-bodied and well-balanced, the palate has milk chocolate and luscious blueberry notes. The amazing structure carries the complexity and richness through the very long finish. 96 points. 11/18/2022
1980 Gould Campbell Vintage Port. Dark amber brown in color. There are espresso and tiramisu notes on the nose, as well as some light spirit. Great balance and acidity that dives across the palate. Some medium-dark fruit notes of black cherry and black plum on the palate. Medium body that goes from medium sweetness to a bit of dryness on the extremely long finish. 93 points. 11/18/2022
1991 Warre Vintage Port. Amber-purple in color. Nose of blueberry, bramble fruits, mint, mushroom, herbs. Rich mouthfeel with a touch of acidity. Great cassis and dark fruit notes on the palate, with firm tannins. Very long finish with cassis, Bramble fruits, and chocolate. 93 points. 11/18/2022
We averaged the scores for the Port Flight and the 1994 Quinta do Vesuvio was the clear winner of the flight.
Saturday – 1970’s Vintage Ports
On Saturday, the theme was a 1970’s Vintage Port horizontal with wines from 10 different producers. Normally, these Anniversary events coincide with the Vintage Year, so technically we would normally be drinking Vintage Ports that end in a “2”. However, only two decades in recent history had generally declared Vintage Years – 1992 and 1982. While Ports from those two years would have been fun to try, we turned our gaze back to a milestone year that we missed because of Covid – 1970.
1970 ranks among some of the top Port Wine vintages in history, and seems like it is one of the only old, classic vintages where I can still find bottles on the market at reasonable prices. With 2020 and 2021 tastings scaled back to virtual events because of Covid, we thought it was time to give the 1970 VPs their time in the spotlight.
SURRELL by Chef Aaron Tekulve is a fantastic restaurant in Seattle’s Madison Valley that showcases a tasting menu experience, a wine bar exclusively showcasing Washington wines, a premiere private dining/ catering company, and an event space. Aaron works with local farms, ranches, vineyards, wineries, and artisans to deliver a unique Pacific Northwest experience for all of his guests. Every time I have visited Surrell we have had fantastic food and a wonderful experience. I was looking forward not only to the Port tasting but also to the custom menu Aaron had put together for us for the evening.
Glenn and I met up at the restaurant early so that we could pour all the wines and get them on the table before others arrived. The participants slowly started to arrive as we were pouring the last Ports, and we all eventually settled down into our seats to being the tasting.
Flight 1
1970 Borges Vintage Port. Brown-amber in color. Christmas spice on the nose. Rich, velvety mouthfeel with cinnamon and a touch of spirit. Good balance, with just a hint of tiredness. There are some interesting notes on the mid-palate of candied dates. Medium body, medium sweetness. There is still decent acidity. Spice notes return on the finish. 93 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Dalva Vintage Port. Medium brown-amber in color. Citrus aromas of candied lemon and lemon yogurt. Not much acidity on the entry. The palate is marred by a touch of sourness here that takes away from the overall quality of this wine. This presents like a drier style of Port. 89 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Ferreira Vintage Port. Dark ruby-amber in color. Aromas of light spirit and red fruits with cranberry and red currants. Rich, full-bodied palate with cinnamon red hots, pleasant spices, and warmth. Very good balance with a warm, long finish. Good depth and complexity. 92 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Sandeman Vintage Port. This bottle was corked. N/R. 11/19/2022
Flight 2
1970 Warre Vintage Port. Medium amber-tawny in color. Interesting aromas of English peas or fresh snow peas. Something is wrong with this bottle. N/R. 11/19/2022
1970 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port. Rich garnet in color. Light aromas of red fruit and spirit and cinnamon. Strawberry and some cola with nice richness on the palate. Some nice warmth. Good balance and acidity with a really long finish. 94 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Grahams Vintage Port. Medium garnet with tinges of purple. Dark fruits, cola, chocolate, and a touch of spirit on the nose. Amazing richness on the palate with an exceptional balance between the acidity and sweetness. There was one spike of cloying sweetness at the end of the mid-palate, but otherwise this was a round, balanced, and beautiful wine. 96 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Dow Vintage Port. Medium ruby in color with some bricking. Aromas of strawberry and cinnamon. Medium-sweet palate with red fruit, currants, and strawberry. Very lovely acidity. Knifes-edge balance and an excellent long finish. 95 points. 11/19/2022
Flight 3
1970 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port. Medium ruby in color. Red fruit and some spirit on the nose. Cranberry and red fruit on the palate with some nice acidity and good balance. Rich mouthfeel and very nice notes of chocolate and red fruit on the finish. 93 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Taylor Vintage Port. Dark ruby in color. Some light woody notes and primary fruit on the nose. Fantastic structure. Layers of flavors and complexity on the palate – strawberry, cherry, chocolate, and savory herbs. Young, fresh, and amazingly balanced for something so old. This is one of the best bottles of this wine I’ve had in a while. 97 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Fonseca Vintage Port. Medium purple in color. Aromas of SweetTart candy and chocolate. Holy ****. The entry is velvety smooth and luscious with black cherry, black plum, and some cassis dominating the rich waves of flavors. The structure and balance of this wine are off the charts, and the finish goes on for minutes. 98 points. 11/19/2022
1970 Vintage Ports Summary
After the tasting, we moved on to dinner wines and the amazing meal that Aaron had put together for us.
Wines With Dinner
- Didier-Ducos Champagne
- 2011 G.D. Vajra Albe Barolo
- 2006 JM Cellars Nietos
- 2012 Paul Mathew Pinot Noir
Sunday – Tawny Ports
Where Saturday was all about Vintage Ports, Sunday’s tasting was focused on Tawny Ports. Glenn and I again arrived early to pour all the wines, and once the guests arrived, we dove right into a fantastic tasting.
Flight 1
1964 Niepoort Garrafeira Port. Bottled in 1971. Decanted 1978. Cloudy orange-brown in color. Smoky nose with creosote, roasted chestnuts, some cinnamon, and woody notes on the nose. There’s a richness in the mouthfeel but the sweetness and balance are way off. The bottle just feels tired and may just be an off bottle of this wine. N/R. 11/20/2022
1966 Porto Rocha Colheita Port. Bottled in 2007. Dark mahogany brown in color with some orange and yellow around the edges. Maple bar and pralines on the nose. Massive chocolate and vanilla, saline, torrefaction sugars, bright acidity, and lime zest on the palate. Long finish with bright acidity. 93 points. 11/20/2022
1966 Krohn Colheita Port. Bottled in 2007. Dark brown with tan and orange at the edges. Light mahogany, cocoa powder, and some vinagrinho on the nose. Smooth flavor profile with mouth-coating richness. Warm notes of toffee, orange peel, and some very light notes of oxidation. Nice long finish. 94 points. 11/20/2022
1966 Kopke Colheita. Bottled in 2022. Nice ruby-brown in color. Chocolate, light spice, and a touch of resin on the fresh nose. Light strawberry and bright acidity on the palate. Noticeable tannins on the long finish. 94 points. 11/20/2022
Flight 2
Taylor Golden Age 50 Year Old Tawny Port. Bottled in 2022. Amber-tawny in color with yellow on the edges. Very nice nose of dried fruits, mint, and caramel. Very rich flavor profile with amazing balance and notes of caramel, orange spices, and noticeable sweetness. Very long, balanced finish. 94 points. 11/20/2022
Vista Allegra 50 Year Old Tawny Port. Bottled in 2022. Dark amber brown in color. Mocha powder, mahogany, molasses, and dry dates on the nose. Intense richness on the palate with dusty tannins, raisins, and burnt sugar notes. The structured tannins and fantastic acidity really ramp up the overall quality of this wine. 95 points. 11/20/2022
1969 Vista Alegre Colheita Port. Bottled in 2022. Very dark brown amber in color. There are dusty molasses, mocha powder, and light spirit notes on the nose. The beautifully complex palate has rich waves of brown sugar, citrus, and dried fruits. The viscosity on the palate is thick and unctuous. Very long, complex, and extremely well-balanced finish. 97 points. 11/20/2022
1952 Barros Colheita Port. Bottled in 2008. Cloudy, brown-yellow in color. The nose is a little reticent, but there are some gingerbread and lime notes there. There is a smooth flavor profile, but the flavors have largely slipped to more tertiary notes of fig and prune juice. I think this wine has likely been in the bottle for too long. 92 points. 11/20/2022
Flight 3
1937 Warre’s Reserve Tawny Port. Bottled in 1997. Despite the label, this is a Colheita Port aged in cask. Amber-brown in color. Christmas spice, red fruit, molasses, and mocha powder on the nose. A mélange of cola, rich spices, Annis, and fennel on the palate, all backed by great acidity and balance. This is a smooth, lovely wine with a long finish. 95 points. 11/20/2022
1937 Porto Rocha Colheita Port. Bottled in 2007. Light brown in color with yellow on the edges. Aromas of chocolate, vanilla, and some dried fruits. Warm chocolate and spices on the palate. Very nice acidity and balance with a long finish. 93 points. 11/20/2022
1937 Kopke Colheita Port. Bottled in 2017. Slightly muted tawny in color. It has a lightly oxidized nose of wood, subtle orange spice, and caramel. The palate is smooth and everything about this wine seems well-integrated. Rich mouthfeel, velvety smooth texture, and beautifully long finish. 95 points. 11/20/2022
After we finished the tasting, we cleared the table of our Port wine glasses and prepared for another wonderful meal by Aaron.
Dinner Wines
- 2013 Pomum Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2016 Champagne Christophe Baron Champagne Les Alouettes Charly-sur-Marne
- Browne Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2016 Ridge Geyserville
- 1992 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2019 Azores Wine Company Arinto dos Açores Sur Lies
- Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Curtimenta
- 2017 Adega da Cartuxa Pêra-Manca Branco (Alentejo)
- Herdade do Esporão Esporão Reserva
Port Recap
There were a lot of fantastic Ports over the three days, but based on the average scores, here were the standouts for the weekend:
94+ Points, Ranked
1. 1970 Taylor Vintage Port (97)
2. 1970 Fonseca Vintage Port (96.9)
3. 1969 Vista Alegre Colheita Port (96.7)
4. 1994 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port (96)
5. 1970 Grahams Vintage Port (95.8)
6. 1937 Kopke Colheita Port (95.6)
7. Vista Alegre 50 Year Old Tawny Port (95.1)
8. Taylor Golden Age 50 Year Old Tawny Port (94.8)
9. 1937 Warre’s Reserve Tawny Port (94.6)
10. 66 Kopke Colheita Port (94.3)
11. 1980 Dow Vintage Port (94.2)
It was a great FTLOP Anniversary celebration, and it was nice to see many of our dear FTLOP regulars – some for the first time since the pandemic started. I know we are all looking forward to the next FTLOP tasting so we can taste great wines, eat great food, and enjoy great company.
