Day 4 – Wednesday

Elio Vicente, a friend of FTLOP Director of Tourism Mario Ferreira, joined us on part of the trip and shot video with his cameras and drone over the next two days of the tour. He put together a five-minute video of the highlights that is really exceptional and does a great job of capturing a little of the “magic” that makes the tours so special.

Bulas –  Quinta da Costa de Baixo

Bulas is a relatively new producer, given that many producers trace their origins back centuries. Founded in 1951 when José Bulas Cruz purchased Quinta da Costa de Baixo, whose main Quinta is located at the top of a hill where the Ceira River joins the Douro River. They also own Quinta FozCeira, which sits at the bottle of the hill and adjoins the river.

Bulas produced their first Vintage Port in 2009 and like producers such as Quinta do Vesuvio, produce a Vintage Port almost every year.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by our friend Isabel Vieira, and Bulas Head Winemaker Rosário Carvalhais.

On our walk from the bus to the winery, we happened upon a Pombol stone on the property. These engraved stone columns were the original granite markers commissioned by the Marquis de Pombol to demarcate the Douro wine region in 1756. There were 201 stones set in place in 1758, and an additional 134 markers place in 1761.

It is remarkable to stumble upon these stones, as there are only around 100 of these stones whose location is known, and these literally made this section of the Douro Valley the first “demarcated and regulated” wine regions in the world.

Some of these stones have been moved into museums, occasionally we have found them repurposed as part of a stone house or as a lintel over a doorway, and many properties that have these stones have preserved them and show them with pride to visitors.

For a great article on the history of this demarcation, see The Methuen-Pombal Link & The Demarcation of the Douro on For The Love Of Port.

We took a tour of the production facilities and had the opportunity to taste some samples from casks and tanks.

 

We then made our way to the Bulas tasting room, where we had an impressive lineup waiting for us. The tasting room itself is a welcoming, spacious room with a lot of small round tables for guests, so we all settled in at a table and got ready for the tasting.

Bulas 20 Years Old Dry White Port – The age of the blend is probably around 22 years old. Clear, orange-yellow in color. There are apricots and dried fruits on the nose. This dry style is complex but has also has a nice elegance about it. Very nice acidity on the palate, with orange spice and hazelnuts. There is just a touch of bitterness on the long finish, but otherwise a solid dry white Port. 90 points. 9/29/2021

Bulas 20 Years Old White Port – Amber-yellow in color. The nose has a sweet profile with caramel, honey, oak and herbal notes. The flavor profile is very suave and rich, with complex notes of honey and vanilla. Bright, lively acidity on the very long finish.  93 points. 9/29/2021

Bulas 30 Years Old Dry White Port – Orange-yellow in color. Light cedar on the nose with roasted nuts, vanilla bean, and burnt marshmallow. Great complexity. Some light smokey notes on the palate along with creme brulee crust. There is a good balance between the sweetness and the acidity. 92 points. 9/29/2021

Bulas 30 Years Old White Port – Orange-golden in color. Toasted sweet bread, tropical fruits, and amaretto notes on the nose. The palate has roasted nuts and some touches of honey. This wine has noticeable, but well-balanced acidity on the very long finish. 94 points. 9/29/2021

Bulas 20 Years Old Tawny Port – This blend is closer to a 27-28 year old average. Orange-yellow in color. Vanilla, cream caramel, and some light notes of oak on the nose. Exceptionally smooth flavor profile with honey and some butterscotch notes. It has a very long, smooth finish with some great acidity and balance. 94 points. 9/29/2021

Bulas 40 Years Old Tawny Port – Amber-brown in color. Mahogany, molasses, some dried fruits and an odd but wonderful brown sugar barbecue sauce on the nose. The palate has a rich flavor profile of vanilla and cream brulee. Intense flavor profile and wonderful acidity. Extremely balanced. While many 40 Year Old Tawny Ports are normally rich and viscous, this one is medium bodied but it is very ethereal and complex with a softness and elegance. Wonderfully refreshing for a 40 Year Old Tawny Port. 94 points. 9/29/2021

2015 Bulas Vintage Port – Almost impenetrable dark purple in color. Fresh, dark fruit with blueberries and herbs on the nose. The Touriga Nacional grapes jump out on the palate as well as dusty tannins. Very nice balance on the mid-palate, though the tannins are still present among the dark fruit, blueberry and dark plum. Very long, balanced finished with cranberry and boysenberry. 93 points. 9/29/2021

2018 Bulas Vintage Port – Almost nearly opaque with a deep violet color. Floral notes of violets and carnations on the nose. Tannins are noticeable on the palate, with nice notes of plum and some black pepper. It has a very long finish with dark fruit coming through on the end of the finish. The Tinta Franca really stands out on the nose and the palate. 94 points. 9/29/2021

2019 Bulas Late Bottled Vintage Port – What might have been the 2019 Vintage Port ended up not declared as a vintage year but will be bottled as a Late Bottled Vintage Port instead.  N/R. 9/29/2021

 Bulas Seyra 100 Year Old Tawny Port (Not tasted)

After we finished our outstanding tasting, we headed back down to the Douro River, where a special treat was waiting for us. Isabel had arranged for a Douro River cruise on an old Barco Rabelo style boat.

We boarded the boat and were pleasantly surprised to find a fully catered spread for us, along with several Bulas wines, to enjoy as the scenery of the Douro Valley gently rolled by.

 

2019 Bulas Douro White – N/R. 9/29/2021

2011 Bulas Grande Reserve Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021

2016 Bulas Reserva Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021

     

 

After a wonderful trip enjoying great food, great Bulas wines, beautiful scenery, and great company, we finally pulled up to the dock and prepared to disembark for our next visit: Quinta do Mourão.

 

Quinta do Mourão

I’ve had a lot of amazing, old Tawny Ports from Quinta do Mourão over the past few years (bottled under the “S. Leonardo” brand), but this would be my first visit to the actual Quinta, and I couldn’t wait!

Miguel Braga, who would be our host today, was 10 years old when his father purchased Quinta do Mourão and four other properties in the Douro Valley. When Miguel’s father passed away in 1999, Quinta do Mourão had been making wines to sell in bulk to larger producers who could blend the wines into their own wines. By 2003, Miguel had left his job as an economist and dedicated himself full-time to the winery.

Also joining us from the Quinta was Rita Braga Carvalho, who is the Marketing Manager.

While it would be logical to bottle their wines under the Quinta do Mourão brand, the brand was owned by one of the large wine producers, so Miguel decided to bottle his Port wines under the previously mentioned S. Leonardo brand.

 

The Wines

S. Leonardo 10 Year Old White Port – Made from Codega, Cerceal, and Viosinho white grape varieties. Golden-white in color. Intense spice and tropical fruits on the nose with pineapple and white peach. The sweetness and acidity are well-balanced on the palate. Great acidity on the very long finish. 91 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 10 Year Old Tawny Port – Amber-orange in color. Rich caramel, burnt sugar and cedar notes on the nose. Smooth vanilla and caramel on the palate with amazing acidity and complexity. Bright acidity on the very long finish. 93 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 20 Year Old White Port – The “Mother Wine” for this blend is a 1984 White Port. Golden-white in color. Tropical notes of grilled pineapple, caramel, and hazelnuts on the nose. Intense rich palate with complex tropical fruits, burnt sugar, and extremely well-balanced acidity. 94 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 20 Year Old Tawny Port – Amber-orange in color. Subdued nose with some wood and caramel notes. Vanilla, some butterscotch, and bright acidity on the palate.  A touch of bitterness at the tail end of the palate. Very long finish. 92 points. 9/29/2021

 

S. Leonardo 30 Year Old White Port – Golden amber in color. Banana, tropical fruit, and a touch of vanilla cream on the nose. Rich, intense palate with light spice, some honey and white peach notes. Very long finish with just a touch of heat. 94 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 30 Year Old Tawny Port – Amber-brown in color. Some light hints of caramel and brown sugar on the subtle nose. Rich, intense palate with burnt sugar and some cinnamon notes. It has a very long finish with almond skin bitterness, bright acidity, some spice, and noticeable tannins. 91 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 40 Year Old White Port – Dark golden-yellow in color. Perfumed floral and honey on the nose with some amazing freshness. Extremely smooth tropical fruit, honey, and fantastic balance of sweetness and lively acidity. This seems much younger than a 40 Year Old Tawny Port. 95 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 40 Year Old Tawny Port – Amber-brown in color. Subdued nose of mahogany, molasses, and a touch of caramel. Very smooth palate with well-balanced sugar and acidity. This is a great sipper! I expected a larger body from this wine, so this might be some slight bottle variation. 94 points. 9/29/2021

 

S. Leonardo 50 Years Old White Port – This is a blend of wines from 1962 and 1967. Orange spice and some extremely complex tropical fruits on the nose. Incredibly rich palate with notes of creme brulee, caramel, tropical fruit, and intense acidity. Amazingly long, rich finish with bright but balanced acidity. 96 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 90 Years Old White Port – This blend includes wines from 1880, 1900, 1910 and finally 1927 (in honor of the birth year of Miguel’s father, Mario Braga, who founded Quinta do Mourão). The wine is dark amber-brown in color with a tinge of gold and green on the edges. There is off-the-charts complexity on the nose with wave after wave of torrefacted sugars, herbs, grilled pineapple, and some dark mahogany. The palate matches the complexity, with a rich, viscous mouthfeel highlighted by sweet notes of toasted marshmallow, toffee, and a fresh, lively acidity. The finish is extremely long and harmonious, with the beautiful acidity and complexity lingering for minutes after each swallow. 99 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 60 Years Old White Port – This is a blend of wine from the 1955 and 1958 harvests. It has been aged in neutral American oak. It has a complex, rich tropical nose of guava and pineapple along with some fig and honey. It has a smooth entry on the palate with rich tropical fruit, honey, and notes of vanilla. The finish is smooth with great balance and sweetness. 95 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 1958 Colheita Port – Cask sample. Very dark amber-brown in color. Intense toffee, espresso, caramel, and great notes of Vinegrenio (little vinegar). So many complex flavors. Great intensity on the mid-palate, and as well as great balance on the rich long finish. 93 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 100+ Years Old Tawny Port – This is a blend of wines from 1895 and 1927, which we usually call the “old” blend of this wine. The “new” blend comes from three different vintages, which (if I recall correctly, came from 1890, 1905, and 1927). Dark brown in color with noticeable viscosity when I swirled the wine in my glass. On the nose, I noted salted caramel, lime, expressive cedar, and dark rich espresso. Extremely full-bodied with an intensity and laser-focused acidity that was really something special. Nevertheless, the wine was exceptionally balanced, with the acidity and syrupy sweetness playing very nicely against each other. The finish on this wine went on for minutes, with waves of complex flavors. 99 points. 9/29/2021

1948 S. Leonardo Mother Wine – Cask sample. Not a blend. This is the “Mother Wine” of the 40 Year Old Tawny Port. Incredibly intense notes of caramel, espresso powder, cedar, and orange spice. Rich, viscous palate with intense chocolate, espresso and burnt sugar. Very long, rich finish. 98 points. 9/28/2021

1972 S. Leonardo Mother Wine – Cask sample. Not a blend. This is the “Mother Wine” of the 30 Years Old Tawny Port. There are six different casks of this wine. There are very nice notes of cedar and caramel on the nose. The palate has a rich orange spice with nice acidity. There are chocolate notes on the long finish, with a little bit of bitterness on the tail end of the finish. 96 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 130 Year Old Vinho Generoso #1 White Port –  Intense nose of caramelized tropical fruits, honey, dried apricots and an absolutely amazingly intense mouthful. There are so many things happening in this wine. The palate dances with toffee, caramel, burnt sugar, and cocoa powder. The intense, complex finish goes on for minutes! 98 points. 9/29/2021

S. Leonardo 140 Year Old Vinho Generoso #2 Tawny Port – Mocha-brown in color with yellow on the edges. It is so thick and viscous that it leaves a yellow coating on the glass when swirled. Intense chocolate and dark mahogany varnish notes. Syrup-like body with crazy complexity of milk chocolate, toffee, espresso, vinagrinho (little vinegar), toasted nuts and burnt sugar. The finish goes on forever and the color remains in the glass. Wow. Just wow. 99 points. 9/29/2021

After a stunning tasting of old wines at Quinta do Mourão, it was time to head to our next destination for dinner: Quinta do Vallado

 

Quinta do Vallado

While we have visited Quinta do Vallado many times over the years, this visit was strictly a visit to their excellent restaurant for my favorite Portuguese meal: Cabrito (roasted goat) and Caldo Verde (literally “green broth”), which is a creamy soup with kale. Vallado was once owned by the legendary Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira, and we were joined for dinner by our friend Francisco Ferreira, who is Vallado’s owner and winemaker, and a descendant of Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira herself.

Quinta do Vallado was established in 1716 and is located near the town of Peso da Régua. It was acquired by Dona Antónia’s uncle and Father-in-law, António Bernardo Ferreira, in 1818, and the wines produced were sold under the Casa Ferreira brand.

In 1987, Casa Ferreira was sold, and in 1993 Vallado decided to start bottling under their own name, as well as to start a replanting of the vineyards that introduced single block varietals (as opposed to the more traditional mixed-variety field blend vines that were planted previously).

In 2009, Vallado built a new, modern building and winery.

 

Dinner Wines

• 2020 Vallado Prima Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021
• 2020 Vallado Reserva Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021
• 2018 Vallado Touriga Nacional Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021
• 2018 Vallado Reserva Field Blend Douro Red – N/R. 9/29/2021

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel, and most of us were probably already fondly recalling the events of an amazing day in the Douro.